The Vanished Banquet: Boiled Rice Pea Pods in Vinaigrette

Written by David Shields

Originally Published in The Rice Paper Newsletter, Fall 2009

Until the 1920s, the rice pea stood highest of all the field peas in the regard of southern gourmets.

While the soul food cook might cherish the black-eyed pea, and the upcountry farmer loves his red iron and clay peas, those pulses lacked the delicacy for fine cuisine.

I. M., a writer for the Boston Cooking School Magazine in 1915, sang the rice pea’s virtues: “[T]here is a field pea called the rice pea, grown extensively in southern states, which is white, eye and all, with a slightly creamy tinge, and it is even more delicate of flavor than black-eyed peas; these are as delicate as early June peas, and they retain their natural color when cooked, and do not change the color of meat cooked with them. Perhaps the reason rice peas are not grown more generally is that they are not as hardy as black-eyed peas and other field peas. These delicately flavored rice peas, cooked with tender young pork, are far and away more appetizing than pork and beans, and almost or quite as nutritious. They are good, either cooked after they have become dry in the autumn and winter, or when young and tender in the late spring and early summer. Southern ladies often cook the tender young peas, pods and all, as snap beans are cooked.”

While rice peas proved difficult to grow and subject to insect attack, they appeared on the southern table at various points in the year, as the legumes were planted in rotation with corn and other crops. Supplanted by cow pea varieties easier to grow, the rice pea has become a rare variety available from three heirloom seed brokers. Its culinary qualities, however, promise that it will undergo a renovation in regard in the near future. 

Recipe

Pick the pea pods when they are now fully mature. Wash them thoroughly, for they tend to be buggy. Have a big pot of salted water on a rolling boil. Deposit as many pods as your diners may eat. Do not cook overlong. Ten minutes at most. Drain water and rinse beans with cold water. Try to get them to room temperature. Put in a dressing of oil, vinegar, mustard, and salt. Some add mint to freshen the taste. I prefer it without. 

The Vanished Banquet: Terrapin Soup

Written By David Shields

Originally Published in The Rice Paper Newsletter, Fall 2009

Terrapin Soup ranked among the premier American dishes of the 19th century, found on the bills of fare of the finest restaurants and a fixture at the social dinners of blue book society. Prepared with Madeira or Sherry as a principal ingredient, the vogue for Terrapin soup died with Prohibition in 1919. Because the turtle had been harvested to near ex tinction in northern wetlands, the Volstead Act proved a boon to the species, enabling it to crawl back into healthy numbers in the 1960s. Then the boom in coastal real estate development began playing havoc with its nesting areas in the brackish waters off the Atlantic. While certain states, South Carolina included, do not identify the Diamondback Terrapin an endangered species and maintain laws that permit commercial harvesting, no license for commercial exploitation of the Terrapin have been issued in the 21st century. The turtle is being protected by administrative policy, because there is a widespread conviction that the population is declining. Ongoing studies of terrapin populations are maintained by several groups, reflecting a strong public resolve to bring this most famous of turtles back into a flourishing condition. While it is not illegal to have terrapin soup, no public restaurant in the United States now serves it, sensitive to the sustainability issues, but it still may be had in at least two private clubs in Baltimore and one in Washington, D.C. I include two recipes, representing two schools of thought about the soup. The first reflects the tradition in the Chesapeake region to render it as a thick stew. The second, from one of the earliest cookbooks by an African-American Chef and Housekeeper, The Unrivalled Cook-book (1886), treats in as a high-style soup with forcemeat balls of turtle.

#1

In buying terrapins, select those only that are large, fat, and thick-bodied. Put them whole into water that is boiling hard at the time, and (adding a little salt) boil them till thoroughly done throughout. Then, taking off the shell, extract the meat, and remove carefully the sand-bag and gall; also all the entrails. They are disgusting, unfit to eat, and are no longer served up in cooking terrapin for the best tables. Cut the meat into pieces, and put it into a stew-pan with its eggs, and sufficient fresh butter to stew it well. Let it stew till quite hot throughout, keeping the pan carefully covered that none of the flavor may escape; but shake it over the fire while stewing in another pan, make a sauce of beaten yolk of egg, highly flavored with Madeira or sherry, and powdered nutmeg and mace, and enriched with a large lump of fresh butter. Stir this sauce well over the fire, and when it has almost come to a boil, take it off. Send the terrapin to table hot in a covered dish, and the sauce separately in sauce-tureen, to be used by those who like it, and omitted by those who prefer the genuine flavor of the terrapin when simply stewed with butter.

This is now the usual mode of dressing terrapins in Maryland and Virginia, and will be found superior to any other.

No dish of terrapins can be good unless the terrapins themselves are of the best quality. It is mis- taken economy to buy poor ones. Besides being insipid and tasteless, it takes more in number to fill a dish. The females are the best.

Saturday Evening Post 29, 1505 (June 1, 1850), 0_004. 

#2

Clean and cut up a large terrapin with the entrails and bones; remove the gall carefully; put your terrapin in a soup pot with four quarts of water, a soup bunch, a head of celery, onions, thyme, parsley, salt and pepper; let it simmer four hours do not let it cease one moment to cook; strain your soup, thickened it with browned flour, return it to the soup pot; tie up in a muslin bag half a tablespoonful of cloves, allspice, and a cracked nutmeg; let it simmer an hour in the soup, then remove. If the turtle has eggs, boil them and throw in the yolks; if there are no eggs, use forcemeat balls; add a glass of Madeira and thin slices of lemon before serving. The force- meat balls are made by rubbing two hard-boiled yolks to a paste, with butter, and half a dozen spoonfuls of the turtle meat, chopped very fine, and seasoned with salt and pepper; bind with beaten eggs; make into balls; dip, first, into beaten egg, then into powdered cracker, and fry in butter.

Mrs. Washington, The Unrivalled Cook-Book and Housekeeper’s Guide (New York: Harper & Brothers, 1886), pp. 27-28.

The Vanished Banquet: Benne Soup on Carolina Gold Long Grain Rice

written by David Shields

Originally published in the Rice Paper newsletter, Fall 2009

Benne seed, or sesame seed, was one of the five most important foodstuffs brought by slaves from West Africa to North America. An entire African-American cuisine grew up around the plant of which only the benne wafer, a cookie associated with Charleston, and benne candy, a favorite confection of the West Indies, survive. 

White planters took up the plant in the early 18th century as a source for oil, when experiments in olive cultivation proved unsuitable for most of the south. By the early 19th century it was widely planted from Virginia to Missouri. Of the favorite slave dishes — benne and hominy, benne and greens, and benne soup — only the last entered into southern cuisine generally. 

Robert M. Goodwin of Skidaway Island, George, observed in 1824, that for “negroes in this part of the country . . . it [benne] is thought . . . to be much better in soup than okra, and it is used by them in the same manner.” Sarah Rutledge, author of the Carolina Housewife, included a “Bennie Soup” with oysters in her landmark cookbook. But the simpler, classic soup, was consumed more widely, often served over grits or rice, a new world approximation of the Mende treat, fou-fou.

Long grain Carolina Gold was the creation of Joshua John Ward of Brookgreen Plantation in South Carolina. The standard size of a grain of Gold Seed rice was 5/16ths of an inch. Ward, through careful cultivation of a sport of Carolina Gold, managed to grew grain nearly a half an inch long. Requiring extraordinary efforts of seedsmanship and cultivation, it existed on the market from 1840 to 1860, and commanded the highest prices of any world rice on the Paris market. The Civil War brought an end to its availability. The Carolina Gold Rice Foundation has an initiative to recreate the variety in the near future.

Benne Soup Recipe

1 cup benne seed, Enough sesame oil to cover the bottom of a cooking vessel, A handful of wheat flour, Salt & Pepper, onions, A quart of water.

Toast benne seed in a dry skillet stirring constantly 2 minutes until browned, but not burnt. Empty contents of the skillet into a mortar and mash the seed into powder.

In the same skillet cover the bottom with sesame oil (the African-American way of making it is detailed below in the section on oil) and mix in flour. Stir and cook this until you form a brown roux. Fry one large roughly chopped onion. Add finely crushed benne, and then hot water, steadily, stirring constantly. Cook at a constant medium until it is rich and thick and salt to taste.

This is a hearty and flavorful soup. Serve on top of steamed Carolina Gold Long Grain Rice. 

The Vanished Banquet: A Menu of Lost Southern Delicacies

written by david shields

originally published in The Rice paper newsletter, Fall 2009

In a comic character sketch by antebellum writer Johnson Jones Hooper, a quintessential southern bon vivant, “The Colonel,” attempts to persuade members of the Alabama legislature to move the state capital to Montgomery and not Wetumpka by circulating two bills of fare. That from the ‘Montgomery Hall’ read:

Soup—Oyster.
Boiled—Turkey, with oyster sauce.
Roast—Pig.
Entrees—Oyster-Pie, &c.
Desert—Plumb-Pudding, Tarts, Pies, and Jellies.
Fruit—Oranges, Apples, Pineapples, Raisins, Al- monds, &c.
Wines—Champagne, Madeira, Sherry, &c., &c.

That from the ‘Wetumpka Hotel’ read:

Soup—Cowpea.
Boiled—Bacon and Greens.
Roast—‘Possum.
Entrees—Tripe and Cow-Heel.
Dessert—Fritters and Molasses.
Fruit—Persimmons, Chestnuts, Goobers.
Wines—Black Malaga.

Both the high style and common menus have their telling features. Montgomery Hall catered to southern gourmets’ obsession with oysters, inserting the bivalve in every dish before the dessert course, except roast pig. The Wetumpka Hotel offers a remarkable array of country fare. Neither bill features the glory of southern home cooking, the elaborate baked goods upon which hostesses and cooks staked their reputations. The wine lists betray the same penchant for fortified wines (except for the taste for champagne), not the clarets and white wines esteemed by later generations. Both menus contain items that have endured as staples of the southern table: turkey with oyster dressing, roast pig, bacon and greens, chitterlings, peanuts. Both feature dishes that have vanished from southern cuisine: oyster pie, fritters & molasses, dried persimmons. Why do dishes disappear from a community’s table? Why and how do pleasures vanish?

Sometimes the dishes cannot be made any longer because the ingredients have ceased to exist (the long grain version of Carolina Gold Rice), or are so endangered that they are protected by law (terrapins and rice birds). Other foods expire because of changes in the cost or availability of ingredients; rice bread, once a staple of Carolina tables ceased to be made when local rice was no longer commercially available, after 1912. Some dishes vanish because of changes of taste, as Black Malaga has done from the southern wine cellar, or pickled nasturtiums from the pantry. Other dishes no longer exist because they have transformed into something else. The benne and molasses candy treasured in the antebellum south became benne brittle, when cane sugar became cheaper toward the end of the 19th century. For whatever reason, a buffet table’s worth of southern dishes have passed away. Here I would like to image a banquet featuring the most evocative of these lost treasures, presenting a menu, and then discuss the particular merits of each course and dish in subsequent blog posts. 

Menu

Soup
Benne Soup on Long Grain Carolina Gold
Terrapin Soup

Salad
Boiled Rice Pea Pods In Vinaigrette

Fish
Baked Sturgeon

Fowl
Broiled Rice Birds in Butter

Meat
Mutton Ham

or

Vegetables
Creole Fried Cucumbers and Stewed Salsify Virginia Style

Fritters
Cymling Fritters and Okra Fritters

Dessert
American Chestnut Pudding 

From the archives: Origins of Carolina Gold Long Grain

Letter from Co. Ward, on the Big Grain Rice Brook Green, Nov. 16, 1843

Dear Allston:

The following brief remarks, relative to the big grain Rice, I send you, in compliance with your request.

In 1838, my overseer, Mr. James C. Thompson, a very judicious planter, residing on my Brook Green Estate, accidentally discovered in the Barn yard, during the threshing season, a part of an ear of Rice, from the peculiarity of which, he was induced to preserve it, until he had an interview with me.

It was so very different from any other Rice I had attentively examined, in point of size, that I requested him to take care of, and plant in the Spring on one of the Rice-field margins, which had not been cultivated for several years. This, however, proved to be an unfavorable spot for in long watering, the trash settled on and about the experiment Rice—and after the ‘long water.’ The rats injured it no little. The causes reduced the number of plants which matured to only six, the grain of which appeared the same as that which was planted.

Our want of success in procuring the quantity of grain expected, induced us in the Spring of 1839, to plant the rice in a large tub, filled with swamp mud, and placed in Mr. Thompson’s garden, where it could be watered an attended to every day. But here another misfortune befell it. The careless servant who had it in charge, left the garden gate open, and a hog getting in, destroyed the greater part of the rice. The remaining shoots were carefully taken up and transplanted in a pond; from which we obtained three pecks of rotten light rice—the fact of its being light was attributed to the want of water at the critical time of its maturing.

In the year 1840, we planted with this seed not quite half an acre of new land, at ‘Long Wood,’ which yielded in the Autumn, forty-nine bushels and a half of clean winnowed rice.

In the year 1841, this product was sown in a twenty-one acre field, at Brook Green, which yielded in the Autumn, on thousand one hundred and seventy bushels of sheaf rice, clean winnowed. Of this quantity, from one hundred ad fifty to two hundred bushels were milled, and sent to market. My Factors disposed of it at a considerable advance beyond the highest market price.

In the year 1842, I planted four hundred acres with this seed, and being so perfectly satisfied with both the product and the improved quality of the same, I was induced in the succeeding year, (1843) to sow with it my entire crop. The first parcel when milled, consisted of eighty barrels, netted fifty cents per cwt. Over the primest new rice sold on the same day.

Such is a hurried account of the origin of the big grain Rice, which I have been solicited to furnish. I earnestly trust that his improvement in the seed, will be of incalculable benefit to the entire Rice-growing region.

Sincerely yours,

Joshua John Ward

SOURCE: The Proceedings of the Agricultural Convention and the State Agricultural Society of South Carolina from 1839- 1846 inclusive (Columbia: Summers & Carroll for the State Agricultural Society of South Carolina, 1846), pp. 56-57. 

Our Local Food is Carolina Rice Bread

written by glenn roberts

originally published in the Rice paper newsletter, fall 2009

Interest in local bread traditions is exploding across America. In July this year, The Kneading Conference in Skowhegan, Maine, sold out with record attendees, both professional and hobbyist, clambering to learn about wood hearth artisan breads and elite landrace wheat flours and unique heritage breadmaking techniques. There were similar events in other regions of New England, Northern California and the Pacific Northwest. And there is a new local bread initiative in North Carolina, The North Carolina Organic Bread Flour Project, spearheaded by Jennifer Lapidus and the Carolina Farm Steward- ship Association. This group focuses on local bread production and artisan breads of the Carolinas.

The Carolina Gold Rice Foundation can now provide a new level of support for the repatriation of the Carolina Rice Kitchen, the cuisine of our local foods, by advocating for the return of Carolina Rice Bread, in all its glorious iterations, as our local daily bread. No other local food better represents the iconic uniqueness of the Southern Table. We would not be plowing new ground in our efforts. Two years ago, Poppy Tooker, famed chef and local foods advocate of New Orleans, brought international attention to New Orleans French Bread to support its survival in the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina. Her efforts were quite successful and far reaching.

We should learn from Chef Tooker’s success even though our challenge appears at first to be more daunting. Carolina Rice Bread isn’t threatened, it is extinct for reasons no one understands except for the possibility that Carolina grown bread wheat is extinct as well. The availability of high quality local bread wheat will increase dramatically within the next year in both North and South Carolina. The North Carolina Organic Bread Flour Project will guarantee this with a network of professional wheat farmers and a European quality bread wheat mill located in Asheville.

Our mission should be to advocate for pairing the return of local bread wheat and its heritage with our mission to support the revival of robust Carolina Rice production. Our goal should be to focus upon one of the thousands of Carolina Rice Bread recipes from our antebellum era and select that recipe according to its appeal to Southern bakers and artisan bakers throughout America. I propose a call for historically accurate Carolina Rice Bread recipes based upon local bread wheat and Carolina Rice Flour with a submission deadline of March, 2010. 

From the Archive: Soil replenishment and Long Grain Gold Seed Rice, 1851

The following letter by Robert F. W. Allston was addressed to the Commissioner of the U.S. Patent Office and apprises him of the current system of cultivation in use among large-scale rice planters, including Joshua John Ward, in the Peedee. It is one of the most informative documents reflecting on the issue of restoring nutritive elements to the soil of impoundment fields. 

REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF PATENTS FOR THE YEAR 1850. Part II: Agriculture 

House of Representatives, 13th Congress, 2nd Session (Washington, D.C., 1851), pp. 323-25. 

Document # 32 Rice Culture 

Matanza Plantation on Pee Dee, near Georgetown, SC 6th January, 1851 

Sir:--My time has been so much otherwise engrossed since the harvest that it has not been in my power to communicate with you earlier, and now (if indeed it be not too late for your purpose) I must write briefly, and generally, in relation to the rice crop. 

Our lands are improving under the grateful influence of the fallows and rotation practiced by me, as that of a system, first in 1837-8, and they produce now rice of better quality than formerly. So much is this the fact, that there is a class of purchasers rec- ognized in the Charleston market who will be con- tent with nothing but the choicest samples, and for these they are willing to pay an extra price. 

This system, extended as it is, and greatly improved, in the hands of my observant, skilful, and judicious neighbors of Waccamaw and Sandy Island, by manuring with rice-straw, chaff, and even flour, has been one among the chief means of producing the beautiful ‘long-grain’ rice (cultivated now by the two most successful and experienced planters in this district, and by not more than two others, as far as I know) in the highest state of maturity. 

Rice straw has long been valued as an excellent manure, when listed in and rotted, for upland corn and potatoes. It has latterly been used in the same way as a dressing for rice in the fallow swamp-land, on Sandy Island, and with favorable results. 

Rice chaff, too, which formerly was discharged from the mill into the “race-way,” in order to get rid of it, since its analysis by Prof. Shepard, for our Agricul- tural Society, is now used to some extent in renovat- ing old lands. It is distributed over the surface, some three inches deep, and ploughed in, stimulating the production of the soil, and improving the quality of the grain. 

Rice flour, notoriously of value as food for hogs, cattle, and poultry, and selling readily, when corn is scarce, at from 12 to 20 cents per bushel, has, with a very few years past, contributed its share towards improving in both quality and quantity a particular crop in Waccamaw. 

The crop of last year, (1850-1), affording, as it does, a good portion of very prime rice, where the salt- water did not affect it, will prove to be some 10 per cent. Short, as estimated by us. This diminution is believed to be owing, chiefly, to the high winds which passed over the tide-lands about the middle of August last, when the greater half of the growing rice-plants were still in bloom. 

Rice is essentially a ‘swamp-seed’ here. We do not cultivate any on the upland. 

Every year, however, it is grown in small patches in the interior, and tended mostly with the plough. 

The best kind of rice for this purpose is, I believe, the old-fashioned ‘white-seed,’ which was the only variety cultivated in the State until late in the last century, when was introduced among tide-swamp planters the ‘gold-seed rice,’ which is now univer- sally approved. The ‘bearded rice,’ a variety of white rice, with a very long awn, was imported some years ago for this very purpose, (upland planting) but, I believe, it is now nowhere seen but to be eradicated. 

The ‘long-grain’ seed alluded to above, some account of which is given in the proceedings of the State Agricultural Society of South Carolina, is the choicest variety now cultivated in this region. Like the ordinary seed, it requires particular care and attention throughout the process of culture, to have it produced of the primest quality. But, when thus produced, if it be carefully milled and skillfully prepated, the long-grain rice will command in the winter market from 50 cents to $1 per 100 lbs. more than the very best qualities of the ordinary small grain. 

For example, during the month of December just past, the market in Charleston for small grain has ranged from $3 and $3.25 for prime, to $3.37 1⁄2 and $3.50 per 100 lbs. for choice. Whereas the market for long grain has been influenced by fancy. Prices have been obtained for this kind of $4.25 per 100 lbs., $4.50 also, and even $5 for a small fancy lot. 

These prices are never reported; but, having been informed that they were actually paid, I feel bound to mention the fact, when answering your inquiries as to improvements of the grain. 

A specimen of this grain, with the entire plant, in- cluding the root, has been prepared, and will be sent to the Great Fair in London, 

I have the honor to be, very respectfully, 

R. F. W. ALLSTON

Report from Turnbridge Plantation

originally published in the rice paper newsletter, 2009

In the story of the repatriation of Gold Seed to its homeland in the watercourses of South Carolina and Georgia, no family is more important that the Schulzes of Turnbridge Plantation. Richard Schulze, Sr., the patriarch of Carolina Gold Rice Planters, revived both the grain and its fame in the 1980s. For the last thirteen years, his son, Richard Schulze, Jr., has presided over the plantings at Turnbridge. In autumn 2008, the Rice Paper thought it time to catch up with Richard Jr. to learn the latest about the longest continuously planted fields in the Lowcoun- try: “In 2007, I rested the fields. My father had started planting rice in 1985; I moved to Turnbridge in 1995, and rice was planted every year through 2006. I felt that it was time for rotation, so we planted corn in the fields in 2007. This year we planted only one 6 acre field and harvested this week about 130 bushels of rice (5 to 6 thousand pounds). I'll send it to Campbell Coxe to have it processed for seed, reserving a small amount to mill ourselves. Our yield was poor because 30% of the rice lodged during a tropical storm. We didn't have too much trouble with birds this year, although I understand that other folks did. Re soil replenish- ment, we periodically have the soil tested and in the past have had to lime the fields. Typically we use fertilizers and nitrogen. Two years ago we planted one field of organic rice using organic manure from a specialty shop in (I think) Tennessee. We grew a large field of organic weeds.” Despite the setbacks of this fallow year, Richard Schulze, Jr., regards his work at Turnbridge successful and gratifying. He takes pride in having increased crop productivity and solving the problem of harvesting efficiently. “I'm proud to say that in the years I've been plant- ing the rice we have had our best yields ever and have solved our harvesting problems by purchasing a combine.” On the horizon, he worries about the costs of transporting crop to Campbell Coxe’s mill, particularly if gas prices rise to the levels of August 2008.

Richard Schulze, Jr., touches upon a problem that has deviled rice planters since the early nineteenth century — how to replenish the vitality of rice fields. (See the letter of Joshua John Ward about this subject in the Historical Documents section of the Rice Paper.) We don’t doubt the wisdom of rotating crops on the fields. As early as the 1830s, planters grasped that planting other grains, field peas, or grass in the impoundment fields restored nutriments to the soil. Invariably rotation was accompanied by manuring, and it is on the question of whether to resort to petroleum based chemical manures or green and animal manures that the great divide between industrial and organic agriculture opens wide. Richard Jr.’s pungent report on his experiment with organic rice farming shows unequivocally where he stands on the matter.

It is said, that the proof of the pudding is in the eating. How does the Carolina Gold rice from Turnbridge taste? A bag of current crop rice was provided to the Rice Paper for sampling. We prepared it two ways: plain boiled rice with salt and in hoppin’ john with some sea island peas and Caw Caw Creek ham for seasoning. Prior to the test we kept the rice in the freezer to preserve its quality. Three traditional Columbia, S.C. rice cooks did the tasting. Observations: out of the bag the Turnbridge rice, though just a shade smaller than the standard 3/ 8ths inch length of milled Carolina God, had the pearly, translucent endosperm of classic CG. It also has the slight malty odor of fresh rice. When boiled,

it absorbed liquid readily, and after sitting, it had good grain separation and the slightly sticky surface that betokens rice that has not gone stale or dry. It was for the most part odorless. Mouth feel was pre- cisely what one looks for, mildly starchy, mellow, and with a lingering taste that faintly echoes hazel- nuts. It entirely lacked bitterness, the fruit taste that afflicts some south-Asian aromatic rices, or the bland pastiness that characterizes some commercial long grain white rices milled for long stays on the grocery shelf. The Turnbridge rice displayed its qualities more pronouncedly when married to field peas and pork. It has been said that the great virtue of Carolina Gold is its unrivaled capacity to marry with other flavors in one pot stews, perloos, and pilafs. Tunbridge retains its textual clarity while serving as a background for the sharper tastes of field peas or salty ham. The three tastes gave it a decided thumbs up as a complement to other ingredients. In sum, a fine rice. One understands the hubbub when Richard Schulze, Sr., began distributing the first quantities of Carolina Gold to his friends in the late 1980s. 

Search for the Lost “Long Gold” Rice

originally published in the rice paper newsletter, 2009

The Carolina Gold grown in the Lowcountry in the the 21st century has the size and configuration of the Gold Seed rice introduced to Carolina in the 1780s  — “oblong grain 3/8ths of an inch in length, slightly flattened on two sides, of a deep yellow or golden color, awn short; when the husk and inner coat are removed, the grain presents a beautiful pearly-white appearance.” Yet there once existed another form of Gold Rice — larger, finer, and more valuable in the world markets—than the familiar form sown in our fields. With grains measuring between 5/12ths to half an inch in length, long Gold rice became the most highly and widely esteemed American rice of the antebellum period. Despite its immense repute, it was under cultivation for less the twenty years, being commercially available from 1843 to 1861. The Civil War disrupted the complicated seed management that kept the variety viable. Long Gold would be the foremost agricultural casualty of the Civil War.

Long Gold appeared suddenly, a genetic sport of regular Gold Seed rice, spotted as a lone panicle lying on the ground after the 1837 harvest by Mr. Thompson, the overseer of Brookgreen Plantation. Brookgreen’s owner, Joshua John Ward, was the most ambitious and scientific, of Carolina’s antebel- lum planters. He took up Thompson’s discovery and carefully developed the strain, planting it in newly cleared marsh lands, soil free of red rice con- tamination and blessed with maximum fertility. From 1838 to 1843 he nurtured the grain, giving pure seed to his circle of planters working north of the Santee River. In 1843, Ward and his circle grew sufficient quantities of Long Gold to make it avail- able commercially. Its qualities immediately com- manded the wallets of rice buyers, who paid “15 to 20 per centum more” for it than regular Carolina Gold of prime grade. [R. W. Allston, “On the Culti- vation of Rice,” Southern Agriculturalist 3, 7 (July 1843), p. 245.] In 1844 Ward placed Long Gold seed rice on the market, making it available to anyone who wished to undertake cultivation. Yet the rigor that keeping seed rice for Long Gold pure proved so great, that only Ward himself supplied it for much of the time it remained on the market.

The difficulties of maintaining seed integrity were not the sole problems that Long Gold’s growers faced. The larger grains caused problems with the commercial rice processing mills, requiring recali- bration of the grinding surfaces to keep the rice from breaking apart when having the bran removed. Joshua John Ward died in 1853, turning his rice empire over to son, Joshua Ward, who main- tained Long Gold’s seed stock as a testimony to his father’s memory. According the R. Habersham, the Savannah, GA, grain broker, Joshua Ward’s own mills processed most of the Long Gold produced on the eve of the Civil War. The war disrupted the planting schedule, stopping seed production for Long Gold. By 1865 the variety was lost in the Wac- camaw region. In 1869 Joshua Ward died, and the will of his father went into litigation that would lead to the plantation’s break-up. While Long Gold had been crossed with other varieties during its two decades of production, engendering long grain raise in other places, it only lived in the cherished memo- ries of southern cooks and agriculturists as the twentieth century dawned.

The Carolina Gold Rice Foundation in its fall 2008 meeting formed the goal of restoring the lost long version of the grain. It discussed undertaking seed archaeology at Brookgreen and other sites known to have grown the grain, and also discussed using modern breeding methods to recreate the form. 

Charleston Gold Rice: Making the Old New Again

written by glenn roberts

originally published in the rice paper newsletter, 2009

---

There is a little known movement with a quiet but insistent and growing voice in our planet’s scientific community. This shift is most noticeable in those scientists whose disciplines create, study and release foods with better nutrition and higher natural yields into third world agriculture where famine looms as a continual threat. Recently, the best of these scien- tists have begun additional, voluntary, unfunded research to create better foods for the first world as well. If it weren’t for their dedication, years of post- doctoral research and lack of motives for personal gain, these new first world research projects could be labeled “hobby” projects, but the fact that their work is on par with the best worldwide seed devel- opment corporations dispels that notion with cer- tainty. In the following paragraphs we explore the challenges and rewards of one such collaboration and discover how important this new movement is for the future of American agriculture and American cuisine.

Dr. Gurdev Khush and Dr. Merle Shepard reside on opposite coasts and pursue complimentary but vastly different fields of research. Dr. Khush is a leading plant breeder on faculty at UC Davis and Dr. Shepard is professor of entomology at Clemson University’s Coastal Research and Education Center in Charleston, South Carolina. Both scientists are recognized worldwide for decades of research pro- grams in Southeast Asia and both are emeritus from the International Rice Research Institute in the Phil- ippines. But the fact that they are close friends is the best explanation for their unexpected collaboration on an historic rice breeding effort in the Philippines, South Carolina and Texas since 1998. Both scientists engage in this research and development unfunded to be able to deliver this rice to the American public and beyond with no proprietary constraints. For those unfamiliar with the rigor of new rice variety introduction in the American rice industry, it would be an understatement to say Khush and Shepard’s unfunded collaboration is a rare.

The understanding of rice farming, cultural history and breeding research Dr. Shepard and Dr. Khush draw upon to create their new rice variety is also unique in our rice industry and critically important to the future of rice horticulture in the Americas. For their new rice, Dr. Khush combined heirloom Caro- lina Gold rice traits with quality, disease resistance and productive strengths from many rice varieties into one new variety that combines the best traits of its parents. Imagine juggling dozens of balls while running at top speed while reciting a Shakespeare sonnet while dodging bullets ... this is the concep- tual idea of Dr. Khush’s plant breeding talent as art. To provide a cultural and historic foundation for Khush’s art, Dr. Shepard, Indiana Jones style, mined data from antique farm journals, scoured heirloom rice seed banks worldwide, evaluated traditional third world rice farming methods and collected for study rare indigenous rice varieties from fields in the far corners of our planet. Khush and Shepard took a final verification step by employing genetic marker analysis to authenticate the results of their collection and breeding. By joining their research strengths, both scientists hold an exceptional awareness of the arc of rice development worldwide over the last few centuries. This merger of disciplines makes possible their new American rice de- rived from America’s oldest rice.

America’s oldest rice emanates from the time of our revolution in the rice fields around Charleston, South Carolina. Prior to that time, we grew rice in Virginia, Carolina and Georgia (wildly popular and known generically in Europe as “Carolina Rice”) from seed grown for centuries around the Mediter- ranean, coastal Africa, Indonesia and the Far East.

During our revolution, British forces destroyed cereal grain seed stock throughout the colonies. This tactic was especially severe in the South where rice production and export played a major role in eco- nomic stability. After our revolution, scientist farm- ers throughout the Southern states launched un- precedented development efforts in marketing, technology and seed breeding to revive the South- ern rice export industry. Drayton, in his “A View of South Carolina” published in 1803, states there were over one hundred rice varieties used for breeding new rice for production shortly after our revolution. The highest quality and most successful rice was given the name “Carolina Gold” for its hull color in the field and lovely subtle gold patina when milled correctly and observed in sunlight.

But the recent trend toward abbreviation of Carolina Gold rice history and diversity to one export variety from our revolution until it faded from production during the Great Depression is the greatest chal- lenge to its cultural survival. Carolina scientist farmers created numerous rice cultivars from exotic rice varieties originating in Asia, Africa and the Mediterranean Rim. Consequently, more than one variety marketed as CGR attained production suc- cess here and subsequently enjoyed marketing suc- cess in Europe and the Far East. Dr. David Shields provides an excellent description and history of one new pre-Civil War Carolina rice, “Long Gold”, in this newsletter. Dr. Shield’s piece is groundbreaking for many reasons but it is particularly important for its confirmation of the continuity of rice improve- ment efforts in the South from our revolution to modern times.

Continual improvement of CGR forms the genesis of Dr. Shepard’s and Dr. Khush’s approach to a new rice variety based upon one well documented pure heirloom CGR. Their work underscores CGR’s criti- cal importance in American rice history and its fu- ture cultural relevance within American cuisine.

Dr. Khush and Dr. Shepard began their project in 1998 by setting their CGR improvement parameters well above modern rice quality and production standards. They chose their end use characteristics carefully to reflect the best traits of CGR while in- corporating new rice agronomic and culinary quali- ties that guarantee market success in the 21st cen- tury. Most remarkable, and in addition to modern breeding protocol, Khush and Shepard determined in advance to include natural selection improve- ment protocol used by Antebellum CGR scientist farmers in the final selection of their new rice. All of Dr. Khush’s crosses were grown out by Dr. Shepard beginning in 1999 at the International Rice Research Institute in the Philippines and then transferred in 2004 to research plots at Clemson Coastal Research and Education Center. Dr. Shepard and Dr. Khush eliminated the less desirable offspring over the next three years. By fall harvest in 2007, Dr. Shepard and Dr. Khush selected the final most successful im- proved CGR strain and made two important deci- sions: In the spring of 2008, they sent seed to Dr. Anna McClung, rice research project leader, USDA- ARS Beaumont, TX, for replication and study to verify its productive and quality characteristics and insure its introduction to American rice farming as a public variety with a high degree of integrity. They also conducted two quality tasting regimes: a formal food tasting panel evaluation of their new rice su- pervised by food scientists at Clemson University and an informal tasting trial with selected profes- sional chefs around the USA. The results of both evaluations will be presented in a future CGRF newsletter.

Dr. McClung planted the new rice in the spring of 2008 in research plots at the USDA-ARS research station in Beaumont, Texas, to study characteristics and replication. Dr. McClung also engaged the growers at Texas Rice Improvement Association (TRIA) to grow a small field of the new Khush/ Shepard rice for production trial analysis. By late spring, Dr. McClung observed remarkable early vigor and yield development traits in the Khush/ Shepard rice. By mid-summer it was obvious that the new Khush/Shepard rice was extraordinarily vigorous and competitive, a prime attribute for successful low input organic horticulture to address naturally occurring weed pressure in rice fields without the use of herbicide. By September 1, field trial yield analysis by TRIA growers in association with Dr. McClung verified that the new Khush/ Shepard rice is very high yielding. Their informal projection was between 6000 and 9000 pounds per acre at harvest. Noting a distant threat of a tropical storm system, Dr. McClung invited me to TRIA to review the progress of the research plots and field trial. I flew in on September 2 with now Hurricane IKE threatening the region. Dr. McClung arranged a meeting with Mike Douget, President, and Julio Castillo, Seedsman, TRIA. Mike and Julio immedi- ately stated they thought IKE was a threat to Dr. McClung’s Khush/Shepard rice plots and also the field trial of the new rice. Because of their concerns we immediately departed for the fields to review the state of the Khush/Shepard rice. It was too im- mature to harvest, sadly. (Julio promised he would try to bring in as much research rice as he could before IKE made landfall. Julio told me later he worked into the night before IKE hit to bring in the 2008 CGR.) On September 8, Julio and Mike found 2 large storage bins destroyed, the roof gone on one seed house and another damaged. The worst dam- age came from tornados spawned by IKE that rav- aged much of the TRIA rice in the fields, including some of our Khush/Shepard rice. Some lodged and some had seed stripped off the heads. But with the support of Mike Douget and Dr. McClung, Julio was able to harvest enough Khush/Shepard rice to plant five acres in 2009.

Dr. McClung will include the Khush/Shepard rice in its second year of a five state yield trial this sum- mer. In addition, Dr. McClung with place the rice in a comparative study with other modern aromatic rices and CGR and also in an N response study.

Dr. McClung selected panicles of the Khush/ Shepard rice from what was grown in 2008 and sent them to the USDA-ARS Puerto Rico nursery for grow out. Dr. McClung expects to harvest there in late April and plans to return with several hundred “true to type” panicles that will be planted in Beaumont, TX, as headrow. Headrow seed will be harvested in the fall and will be used to register the variety and submit it as a voucher sample to the ARS world collection. The headrow seed that Dr. McClung produces in this year can be provided to TRIA or others for foundation seed production of the new Khush/Shepard rice in 2010.

Here are the findings to date:

The Khush/Shepard rice is at least equivalent in production yield with modern rice and it may be exceptionally productive. It is very early to emerge and very vigorous in early growth. It has excellent agronomic characteristics. It has remarkable yield potential. Informal physiological, morphological and DNA analysis of the Khush/Shepard rice shows it is similar to Jasmine 85, a widely popular modern production rice. Dr. McClung and Mike Douget suggest one more year of formal evaluation for food and agronomic study. Dr. Bastos, a Brazilian rice geneticist expressed interest in the Khush/Shepard rice for his country after observing it in the field at TRIA in July 2008.

Dr. Khush and Dr. Shepard have created an exceptional rice. It is an elegant aromatic long grain Ja- ponica dwarf of pure Carolina Gold Rice with a very promising future and the hallmark distinction of golden seeds. It mills beautifully with a high per- centage of whole grain, has lovely aromatic attrib- utes and very appealing texture when cooked. The Khush/Shepard rice has attracted support for non- proprietary development from the American rice milling industry and is garnering close scrutiny from respected rice growers in Texas and South Carolina. In terms of contemporary development, the new Khush/Shepard rice is a run away success. To give tribute to their new rice’s heritage, Dr. Shepard has chosen the name “Charleston Gold” for this new rice which will be released in 2009 by Dr. Shepard, Dr. Khush and Dr. McClung. These rice scientists are truly making history.

POST NOTE: An unexpected result of Dr. Shepard’s research in rice farming history reveals the heretofore-unrecognized possibility that our rice seed banks around the world today may contain diverse heirloom CGRs bred in the Carolinas con- tinuously during the half-century prior to our Civil War. To explore this, he asked Dr. Anna McClung for DNA marker analysis and authentication support beginning in 2004. Dr. Shepard and Dr. McClung are now engaged in a worldwide DNA database survey of seed bank rices that include CGR genetic profile. This research will be the subject of an article in a future CGRF newsletter.